Giant Strawberries and Gordal Green
Au poivre is everywhere and I want to go to Saint Tropez
Welcome to another week spent taking stock of hospitality happenings and interesting news from around the world of taste.
If you haven’t already, take a moment to sign this open letter from the food community to Keir Starmer and the UK Government. Free Palestine, always and forever.
On Saturday, I sat by the bins down the side of The Westbourne soaking up the sun with friends. If you’re on the hunt for a rich and polished European to date, I suggest you hang out there. I was reminded once again that I don’t spend enough time in West London – a whole other world.
wrote about what people are wearing in Notting Hill that same day, and it’s a fun read.
THIS WEEK I WAS TOLD
You could be queuing up to 2.5 hours to eat at Agora on the weekend. That’s only an hour less than the flight time to Athens, where the restaurant takes its inspiration from.
Athens is the new Marseille – which I’ve been saying for the past few years. I’m more interested in where the next fashionable migration destination will be. Some are suggesting Accra or Marrakesh. My money’s on Madrid.
La Camionera is planning a club. Of the dancing variety, not the member-only type. Though the latter could be feasible. Roses of Elagabalus styles itself as a Queer Clubhouse, and I’ve heard it’s launching memberships soon.
NOTABLE NOURISHMENT
Norman’s is closing next month after 5 years. A place not without controversy, I noticed little was said about it in my circles. I’ve never dined there, nor will I before 8th June.
Lyle’s closed on Sunday after 11 years. It went out with a bang hosting a 16+ hands (I lost count) final lunch service. A seminal London restaurant, most people in the industry have a story to tell about the impact of James Lowe’s cooking. I had lunch at Lyle’s in 2020 and often think about the kid goat I ate.
From my texts with Dara, who was at the last lunch, and delivered this tragic metaphor to encapsulate the current climate of uncertainty in the hospitality industry. The pendulum is swinging away from smashburgers. And we mark the return to a juicier patty. Sauce au poivre not a requirement but very likely to feature within the burger somehow or, as an accompaniment for dipping.
Giant strawberries are set to hit our supermarket shelves. So giant they won’t fit in your mouth. All because April was the sunniest it’s ever been in the UK with 228.9 hours of sunshine. I first saw this story via Song-I Saba two days ago and she’s been deep diving into the subject ever since. She’s looking for more Berry Busters to get involved in papping all the big berries popping up this summer.
Theo James is stealing the limelight. Roman spot Lupa is opening in Highbury Barn next month but the chit chatter is mostly about how hot Theo is and whether he’ll be the next James Bond. Bookies are saying he’s “more likely than anyone has ever been to replace Daniel Craig”.
This beach club is selling the dream. Marco Andres shot the latest campaign for La Bouillabaisse in Saint Tropez and I’m very into it. It’s the first time I’ve seen a communications agency be credited for a place’s creative direction and press relations in an Instagram bio, so kudos to Agence Mews.
Dom Hamdy is opening another restaurant. Canal - coming soon to Mason & Fifth in Westbourne Grove - is the debut project of his new consultancy business Quality Projects. I found out about it when my favourite graphic design studio Mestiza Estudio posted about the branding.
Alison Roman’s new book colour is important. I’m still unclear on how exactly Alison redeemed herself, but I’m most interested in the design of her latest cookbook. It announces the dawn of classic covers: less playful, more pared back. Her selected shade of Gordal (olive) green - or Prada green, diluted for the masses, if you want to be all Miranda Priestly about it - has been infiltrating our screens to replace brat this summer. I’m a bridesmaid on Sunday and my dress is very much on theme, in a similar shade of chartreuse.
Keith McNally is securing top coverage. Yesterday, he was interviewed on
with questions submitted by ’s readership, while Jodie Hill shot him a quick fire round on AnOther. Earlier this month, “the restaurateur, raconteur and provocateur” was featured in The New York Times and Interview. Running theme: his most missed restaurant is Lucky Strike. I look forward to reading his memoir on a beach soon.Yu Su is the opening act for The Loft. Yu Su’s Polyphonic Eating is the first event in the calendar at Daniel Willis and Johnny Smith’s newly launched, semi-exclusive “concept space” The Loft, in Clerkenwell. I can’t buy a ticket and report back as I wasn’t technically invited.
Gorka are cooking at Ken’s. The two Georges are there till the end of next week. Their cooking is ingenious and unpredictable, and you’ll leave feeling energised.
Drop me a line with anything I should know about. Until next time, all my love.
Athens the new Marseille, yes sir, we also discovered it our recent summer travel survey. Everyone’s craving gyros! https://passingthesalt.substack.com/p/trips-making-it-out-of-the-group
Excellent read! Now booking a flight to Madrid.